Recommended by the Ethical Fashion Forum
Recommended by The Victoria & Albert Museum
Black, Sandy. Eco-chic: The Fashion Paradox. London: Black Dog Publishing, 2008. National Art Library pressmark: 603.AJ.0245
Blanchard, Tamsin. Green is the New Black. Hodder & Stoughton, 2007.
Clark, Duncan. The Rough Guide to Ethical Shopping. London: Rough Guides Ltd, 2004.
Clayton, Marie. Make Your Own Clothes: Twenty Custom-fit Patterns to Sew. London: Collins & Brown, 2008.
Fletcher, Kate. Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. Sterling: Earthscan, 2008. National Art Library pressmark: 603.AJ.0135
Gisen, Barbara. Ethical Clothing: New Awareness or Fading Fashion Trend? [S.I.]: VDM Verlag, 2008.
Hethorn, Janet and Ulasewicz, Connie eds. Sustainable Fashion: Why Now?: A Conversation Exploring Issues, Practices, and Possibilities. New York: Fairchild, 2008. National Art Library pressmark: 602.AJ.0475
Klein, Naomi. No Logo: No Space, No Choice, No Jobs: Taking Aim at the Brand Bullies. London: Flamingo, 2000. Art Library Pressmark: 602.AB.0057
Lee, Matilda. Eco Chic: The Savvy Shoppers Guide to Ethical Fashion. With foreword by Katherine Hamnett. London: Gaia Books Ltd, 2007
Oakes, Summer Rayne. Style, Naturally: The Global Guide to Sustainable Fashion and Beauty. San Francisco: Chronicle Books, 2008.
Rivoli, Pietra. The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy: An Economist Examines the Markets, Power, and Politics of World Trade. Hoboken, N.J.: John Wiley & Sons, 2005.
Ross, Andrew, ed. No Sweat: Fashion, Free Trade and the Rights of Garment Workers. New York; London: Verso Books, 1997. National Art Library pressmark: 515.D.210
Vartan, Starre. The Eco Chick Guide to Life: How to Be Fabulously Green. New York: St. Martin's Griffin, 2008.
Recommended by Trusted Clothes
Woodman, Conor. Unfair Trade: How Big Business Exploits The World’s Poor And Why It Doesn’t Have To. 2012.
DOCUMENTAIRES & REPORTAGES, TED TALKS, LECTURES
Documentaires et reportages sur l’industrie de la mode
( français et/ou anglais )
Les reportages TV référencés dans la section S'informer du site ne sont pas repris ici
CASH INVESTIGATION: LE REVERS DE NOS TEE SHIRTS (2017)
Le coton, à 95% issu de graines OGM fournies par Monsanto, génère un chiffre d’affaire de 37 milliards d’euros par an, la mort et la pollution massive massive du cycle de l'eau. Dans ce reportage, l’équipe du magazine présenté par Elise Lucet remonte la chaîne d'approvisionnement des tee-shirts jusqu’en Ouzbékistan, via le Bangladesh et l’Inde, éclairant les scandals et injustices multiples le long du chemin. Cet épisode de Cash Investigation explore également le manque de traçabilité derrière un nouveau label coton bio qui fait ravage, et nous aide à déchiffrer ce qui se cache derrière l’étiquette des vêtements.
CASH INVESTIGATION: TOXIC FRINGUES (2015)
En dix ans, les tarifs du seul prêt-à-porter féminin ont chuté de 13%. Mais à quel prix exactement ? Travail d'enfants et d'adolescents, violations des lois locales et internationales, mise en danger de la vie des ouvriers : pendant six mois, au Bangladesh, en Inde et en France, des journalistes ont enquêté dans l'arrière-boutique de la planète textile pour découvrir ce qui se cache réellement sous l'étiquette bradée de certaines enseignes. Malgré de grands discours «éthiques», certaines marques ont recours à des entreprises sous-traitantes qui exploitent leur main d'oeuvre dans des conditions indignes.
TRUE COST (2015)
Ceci est une histoire sur les vêtements, les vêtements qu’on porte, et l’impact que l’industrie de la mode et de l’habillement a sur notre monde. Le prix des vêtements chute depuis des décennies, alors que les dégâts environnementaux et humains se décuplent de façon alarmante. Ce documentaire de Andrew Morgan révèle une portion importante des impacts de la mode sur la planète et l’humain et répond en grande partie à la question: qui paye le vrai prix de nos vêtements? Filmé dans plusieurs pays à travers le monde, et avec la contribution d'acteurs clés du secteur dont les témoignages de Stella McCartney, Livia Firth et Vandana Shiva.
EXPOSURE: FASHION FACTORIES UNCOVERED (2014)
Un reportage Britannique de Lee Sorell qui examine le désastre de Rana Plaza en profondeur. Le 23 Avril 2013, un bâtiment de huit étages où sont entassés enfants, femmes et hommes qui fabriquent pour des marques occidentales, s’écroule. Plus de mille morts et deux-milles cinq cents blessés. Un reportage qui enquête en profondeur sur les tenants et aboutissants de cette catastrophe humaine qui aurait pu être évitée.
LE MONDE SELON H&M (2014)
Un film documentaire de Marie Maurice, qui enquête de sur le géant suédois de la mode à bas prix, H&M. Ce dernier qui se présente en champion de la justice sociale, voit ici ses stratagèmes peut-être légaux mais peu éthiques, mis au grand jour.
SWEATSHOP - DEADLY FASHION (2014)
Dans cette émission de télé-réalité norvégienne, deux jeunes bloggeuses et un bloggeur de la mode, Anniken Jorgensen, Frida Ottesen et Ludvig Hambro, vivent pendant un mois dans les mêmes conditions que les employés qui fabriquent les vêtements de grandes marques comme H&M ou encore Mango, à Phnom Penh, au Cambodge. Vif en émotions et en horreures, les épisodes sont sous-titrés en anglais et disponibles sur le site du journal norvégien Aftenposten ainsi qu’en synthèse sur Youtube.
THE NEXT BLACK - A FILM ABOUT THE FUTURE OF CLOTHING (2014)
'The Next Black' est un documentaire réalisé par l’entreprise internationale American Entreprises Global (AEG). Il explore le future de l’habillement, et interroge des représentants d’entreprises innovantes telles que Patagonia sur leur perception du futur de l’habillement et des solutions qu’ils entrevoient.
THE SECRETS OF SUPERBRANDS (2011)
Dans ce reportage de la BBC Alex Riley explore le pouvoir que les marques détiennent sur les consommateurs, et qu’est-ce qui informe, consciemment ou non, nos achats. Avec l’aide de marchands, de neurologues et l’accès exclusif à l’univers de plusieurs grandes marques de mode, ce reportage nous montre les stratégies de fashion marketing en action et décode leur psychologie.
THE MACHINISTS (2010)
Un documentaire poignant de Hanan Majid qui pénètre le quotidien de trois femmes travailleuses de l’habillement à Dakha (Bangladesh) et montre le coût humain de production pour des marques occidentales.
TED Talks sur l’industrie de la mode
( anglais )
FAST FASHION’S EFFECT ON PEOPLE, THE PLANET, and YOU (2017) - Patrick Woodyard
“Mindful business: While working for a microfinance firm in Trujillo, Peru, Patrick was introduced to the broken Peruvian footwear industry made up of over 100,000 shoemakers who possess remarkable talent yet lack access to consistent work, fair-wages, and brand access to established international markets. Having had extensive exposure to such potential juxtaposed with a lack of access in other developing countries, Patrick developed a vision to push the fashion industry in a new direction by serving as one of the first fashion brands to deliver a superior yet ethically-produced product to consumers.
Patrick is the Co-Founder & CEO of Nisolo. Patrick graduated from the Croft Institute for International Studies and Sally McDonnell Barksdale Honors College at the University of Mississippi. His experience using business as a force for good has led him across the globe ranging from Kenya and Uganda to Argentina and Peru.”
A FEMINIST PERSPECTIVE ON FAST FASHION (2017) - Jeanine Glöyer
“More than 80 billion garments enter the market every year but rarely do we think about where they come from. Jeanine will shatter our perspective and offer a new meaning to the phrase “fashion victim.” Focusing on the ongoing trend of informally hiring women for labor-intensive work in the textile industry and linking that to women’s position in society, Jeanine will open our eyes to the behind-the-scene perspective of the fast fashion industry and provides us with a solution – the ecologically and socially sustainable fair fashion label Jyoti–Fair Works she created with the idea to bring joy to producers and customers alike.
Jeanine first witnessed the working conditions in the textile industry during a voluntary service in India in 2008. Appalled by what she had seen, she developed a strong desire to learn about possible ways in which the exploitative structures of this industry could be altered. Having completed her Bachelors in International Relations with a focus on International Human Rights Law, she was curious to dive even deeper into the subject and thus specialized on global commodity chains and workers’ rights through completing her Masters in “Labour, Social Movement and Development” at SOAS – University of London. Convinced that a different approach to producing apparel is possible, she founded and is today leading the Fair Fashion Label Jyoti – Fair Works. Moreover, regularly organizing workshops, talks as well as lectures for pupils and students, she is deeply engaged in the debate on how structures of exploitation can be transformed in a way that every single person involved in the production of our clothes benefits.”
LIFE IN THE SLOW LANE (2017) - Tamara Jones
“Fashion, employing 1 in 100 people, truly is a global industry, but in a world where the cost of everything - education, housing, even lattes, - is increasing, how is clothing becoming less expensive? This talk will introduce you to the environmental and social impacts of the fast fashion industry, and give you easy tips on how to live more sustainably.
Tamara Jones is a student at Ryerson University with passions for environmental sustainability and social justice. As a Global Studies major, her background is in politics, business and history. Most recently, Tamara has been published in Ryerson University’s Undergraduate Research Journal, facilitated a seminar at University of Toronto’s International Development Conference and participated in the Youth Assembly at the United Nations to discuss the implementation of the Sustainable Development Goals. In the coming months, she will be hosting a class about sustainable fashion where students will have the opportunity to make their own t-shirt from organic, fair-trade linen. In her personal life, Tamara is constantly researching and implementing ideas on how to lessen her impact on the environment while creating a positive impact on the global community.”
HOW FAKE HANDBAGS FUND TERRORISM AND ORGANISED CRIME (2017) - Alastair Gray
“What's the harm in buying a knock-off purse or a fake designer watch? According to counterfeit investigator Alastair Gray, fakes like these fund terrorism and organized crime. Learn more about the trillion-dollar underground economy of counterfeiting -- from the criminal organizations that run it to the child labor they use to produce its goods -- as well as measures you can take to help stop it. "Let's shine a light on the dark forces of counterfeiting that are hiding in plain sight," Gray says.”
THE HIGH COST OF OUR CHEAP FASHION (2016) - Maxine Bédat
“Do you know where your clothes come from? The apparel industry is one of the biggest violators of both the environment and human rights. In this compelling and information-packed talk, co-founder of Zady Maxine Bédat shows how you can take back the power of your wardrobe, and feel better in (and better about) your clothes.
Maxine Bédat is the co-founder and CEO of Zady, a fashion brand and lifestyle destination creating a transparent and sustainable future for the $1.5 trillion apparel industry. Her background in international law and diplomacy, including serving as a legal clerk for the U.N., led her to found The Bootstrap Project, a non-profit organization that works with entrepreneurs in the developing world.
For its work in sustainability, Zady was named one of the world’s “Most Innovative Companies” in retail by Fast Company and its creativity was recognized by Mashable, which called the company “the #1 business rocking content marketing.”
Bédat serves on the Council of NationSwell, has spoken at some of the world’s leading conferences, including the WWD Apparel/Retail CEO Summit, and has been regularly featured as an expert by Bloomberg, Forbes, Business of Fashion, CNN and the Huffington Post. Bédat is a graduate of Columbia Law School.”
HOW TO ENGAGE WITH ETHICAL FASHION (2016) - Clara Vuletich
“What do you know about the clothes in your wardrobe? About the clothes that you’re wearing right now? Clara Vuletich works with some of the biggest brands in the world to help them ask the right questions about where the clothes that we wear come from.
Clara is a designer, researcher, educator and consultant who has worked in the sustainable fashion space in UK and Europe for ten years, and is now based in Sydney, Australia. She was part of the team at the University of the Arts London who designed The TEN, a pioneering sustainable design methodology used by brands including H & M; VF. Corp. and Gucci Group. Clara has recently established a consultancy business that utilises The TEN framework to equip Australian fashion companies with training and insight on sustainable product innovation and strategy.”
FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY: FROM FRIVOLITY TO RESPONSABILITY (2016) - Rachel Arthur
“Rachel Arthur challenges our perception of the fashion industry as being superficial and frivolous. Instead, she proves how much impact the industry has in shaping the world and calls for continued innovation for the future sustainability of our planet.
Rachel Arthur is an award-winning business journalist specialising in fashion and technology and contributing to titles including Forbes, Wired, The New York Times, The Guardian, The Daily Telegraph and The Business of Fashion. She is also the founder of tech-focused news site FashionandMash.com and the vision behind the global #FashMash community. An expert in all things digital, she otherwise acts as a strategic brand consultant within the fashion and luxury space, future-proofing businesses by bringing them first-to-market insights and bespoke solutions surrounding the evolving retail, technology and communications landscape. She regularly speaks on such subjects at conferences around the world, including SXSW, CES, Web Summit and the Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity, and serves as a mentor on various start-up accelerator programmes in London. Rachel was awarded trade/B2B fashion journalist of the year by Fashion Monitor in 2015.”
A SOLUTION FOR A SUSTAINABLE FASHION INDUSTRY (2015) - Fredrik Wikholm
“Every year we throw away 30 kg of clothes, and the textile industry is one of the world’s top 5 polluters. So, how can we make the fashion industry more sustainable?
It’s easy, claims social scientist and Creative Director Fredrik Wikholm, we just need ethics, environment and economics to be buddies. With his new innovation “The Rag Bag” Fredrik challenges the business to take action now, before it’s too late.
It was the creative mindset and will to change, rather than skills in textile design that brought Fredrik Wikholm and his snowboard collective to start up a fashion brand that focused on sustainability. Now he’s taking recycling to the next level with an open-source innovation institute to pave ways for the fashion industry to make more sustainable choices.”
FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY: HOW CAN SMART FASHION CHANGE OUR LIVES? (2015)
- DR Helen Koo
"Dr. Helen S. Koo is a fashion designer, researcher, and educator who loves fashion and cares about our health and environment. She is working as an assistant professor in the Department of Design at UC Davis, and a director of the Fashion Design and Technology Lab (FT Lab). She teaches fashion design courses and her research and creative activity interests include apparel design and product development, wearable technology, functional garments, and sustainable designs. Her recent works have involved developing garments for people with disabilities and chronic diseases. Helen has lived in the US for seven years in Texas, Minnesota, Alabama, and California. She loves traveling, taking photos, and spending time with her family and friends. She will share smart fashion, which is expanding the boundaries of fashion design by implying interdisciplinary technologies and techniques, and explain how it can change our lives."
A WARDROBE TO DIE FOR (2014) - Lucy Siegle
“This talk was given at a local TEDx event, produced independently of the TED Conferences. An expose on the fashion industry written by the Observer's 'Ethical Living' columnist Lucy Siegle, examining the inhumane and environmentally devastating story behind the clothes we so casually buy and wear.
Taking particular issue with our current mania for both big-name labels and cheap fashion, her talk sets an agenda for the urgent changes that can and need to be made by both the industry and the consumer. Far from outlining a future of drab, ethical clothing, Lucy Siegle believes that it is indeed possible to be an 'ethical fashionista', simply by being aware of how and where (and by whom) clothing is manufactured.
Lucy Siegle is one of the UK’s most recognisable opinion-forming journalists on environmental issues. She has been an Observer columnist since 2004 and also contributes features and comment pieces. Her mission is to re-brand ecology and wider environmental issues as relevant and accessible and she launched the Observer Ethical Awards in 2005.
Her work is underpinned by rigorous research and scientific debate (she does not believe in the healing power of crystals). After guest slots on BBC Breakfast, Newsnight and Live Earth, her playful authority was spotted by the makers of The One Show, BBC1 in June 2007 and she was commissioned to present five films on recycling. She quickly established herself as a regular reporter, and has now made countless topical, current affairs and eco related films for the show and appears regularly in studio. She is also a regular expert host for television including: The Money Programme for BBC News 24, UKTV Food, Sky News Sunrise, GMTV and Tonight with Trevor McDonald.”
YOU ARE WHAT YOU WEAR (2014) - Christina Dean
“Dr. Christina Dean is the Founder and CEO of Redress, an NGO with a mission to promote environmental sustainability in the fashion industry. Christina is a regular speaker at seminars and has received numerous recognitions for her work, including being listed by U.S. online magazine Coco Eco as one of '2010's Most Influential Women in Green' and by U.K. Vogue as one of the U.K.'s 'Top 30 Inspirational Women'. Prior to founding Redress, Christina was a journalist and a practicing dental surgeon.”
SUSTAINABLE FASHION IS A SHARED RESPONSIBILITY (2013) - Willa Stoutenbeek
“A burnout and bankruptcy gave fashionista Willa Stoutenbeek a reason to think about where she was and where she wanted to go with her life. Sustainability was the answer. Not only as a way of live, but also in fashion. She believes this to be a shared responsibility. Both by the government as well as the consumer.”
CHANGING THE WORLD THROUGH FASHION (2013) - Eva Kruise
“On the brink of potentially dangerous climate change and with attention on corporate social responsibility soaring to new heights, the world needs innovators -- both people and businesses - who can lead the push toward more sustainable solutions. The fashion industry has the potential to be one such innovator, working proactively to address critical environmental, social, and ethical challenges on a global scale.
Consumers -- you and I - can play a pivotal role in transitioning the fashion industry towards more sustainable business models that significantly reduce the social and environmental impacts of the industry. My talk is about what every one of us can do to improve our personal footprint and the environmental and social impact of the fashion industry.
Eva Kruse is CEO and President of Danish Fashion Institute and Copenhagen Fashion Week. She is also board member of several organizations and companies among them for instance: Nordic Fashion Association, Wonderful Copenhagen and Birger Christensen. Danish Fashion Institute is behind the world's largest and most important event on sustainability and fashion: The Copenhagen Fashion Summit, the next to be held April 2014. Since she graduated in entrepreneurship and leadership from The KaosPilots, Eva Kruse has worked within the worlds of fashion and media, including positions as editor-in-chief of the fashion magazine Eurowoman and as a TV host with the Danish television. In 2005, Eva Kruse was one of the co-founders of Danish Fashion Institute and Copenhagen Fashion Week.”